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Rolex Adds Some Colour Across Its Collections for Watches and Wonders 2024

Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea

From the Sky-Dweller to the yellow gold Deepsea and off-catalogue releases, there is a rainbow of hues for every collector’s preference.

Rolex Perpetual 1908
Rolex Perpetual 1908

As with every year, the rush towards Rolex’s window displays at its Watches and Wonders booth the instant the fair opened was predictable. The products were not. Eager journalists crowded around the new Perpetual 1908 with a stunning ice blue dial featuring a design that has not been seen on the brand’s watches before – guillochage or engine turning. The light blue display has a rice bead motif guilloché pattern covering the entire dial apart from the small seconds display. There is also a secondary crimped filet sauté guilloché pattern that surrounds the minute track.

Rolex Perpetual 1908
Rolex Perpetual 1908

This year’s Perpetual 1908 is in a platinum case with white gold indexes and Arabic numeral quarters, powered by the self-winding calibre 7140 that is a Superlative Chronometer (in case you have forgotten, this is an internal Rolex standard that is set at +/- 2 seconds a day. The movement combines two Rolex technologies – the Chronergy escapement and Syloxi hairspring. The combination enables a power reserve of 66 hours in the classically styled watch that is inspired by Rolex’s earliest timepieces, with a dial that is very contemporary even with the traditional crafts used in this watch.   

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40

The Day-Dates

The Perpetual 1908 is not the only watch that sees this “traditional crafts, modern design” theme this year. The Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 and 36 both see very expressive designs, starting with the slate ombré dial on the former, which was first seen at the Oscars earlier last month. This deep charcoal gradient dial is the first ever for the 40mm model, with Roman numerals and faceted indexes rather than diamond markers. The dial’s effect is achieved through the careful application of black lacquer that follows its colouring from light to dark.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40

In addition, a second Day-Date 40 features a new “pearlised’ mother-of-pearl dial that is produced from the deepest part of the shell, which is the hardest and oldest nacre, with layers of deposits that create this cloud-like texture that adds to the depth perception in the dial. This is exclusive to this model for now, and only two dials can be produced from each shell this way. With baguette-cut diamonds on the dial as indexes, this not only elevates the watch but also really keeps the focus on the stunning mother-of-pearl dial.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36

There are also new dial executions on the Day-Date 36, with the white lacquered dial with the same Roman numerals and faceted indexes as the slate ombré DD40, which is especially eye-catching. This is in part simply due to the brilliant glossy finish of the lacquered dial, which is done by hand and really stands out against the yellow gold case. The case also lends this warm ‘golden hour’ beauty to the dial.

Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea
Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea

A Full Gold Deepsea, Because Why Not?

The elevation of luxury sports watches continues with another gold model, this time in the Oyster Perpetual Deepsea with a full yellow gold case and bracelet that weighs a hefty 320g – diving with this watch means you can do without additional weight, in my opinion. To really enhance the striking identity of this watch, Rolex has paired the case with a vivid blue ceramic bezel insert as well as a matching lacquered dial.   

Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea
Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea

There’s more than what’s on the surface with this reference; the compression ring that’s used with the Ringlock system is now made in ceramic, which improves resilience and durability. This new Cerachrom ring is the result of a new manufacturing process and enables Rolex to apply ceramics to watch components that are more than just visual in style. The caseback is in RLX titanium, which contrasts with the polished finish of the yellow gold case.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

Daytonas in Mother-Of-Pearl Dials

To round off the series (there’s more, but we won’t go into the GMT-Master II, which sees the addition of the grey/black ceramic bezel insert), Rolex continues to liven up the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, this time with a pair of white gold models that feature contrasting mother-of-pearl dials, taking the panda and reverse panda looks to new heights with precious gemstone material. The ‘panda’ version has a standard white mother-of-pearl dial with black mother-of-pearl counters, diamond-set markers, and brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel. The ‘reverse panda’ is in the reverse, with a black mother-of-pearl dial and white counters. 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

There’s also an off-catalogue release that will certainly intrigue collectors, including a yellow gold Le Mans edition that’s “coming soon”. Get ready.

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Editor

Darren has been writing about, and admiring the craft of watchmaking for over a dozen years. He considers himself lucky to live in a golden age of horology, and firmly believes that the most difficult watches to design are the simplest and the most intriguing to discover.


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