Melissa Kong 11 August 2016

There’s more to this Rolex classic than meets the Cyclops eye.

In a world populated by Submariners, Explorers and Daytonas (hello waiting list), we tend to neglect the other models Rolex makes which are equally noteworthy (if not more, depending on who you ask). In fact, the classic Datejust is often glossed over in favour of pieces with more features or higher collectability. But does it really deserve the affront it gets? 

While the Datejust is a relatively simple model without bells and whistles, the devil is in the details. One could argue Rolex doesn’t produce minute repeaters or moonphase complications but there’s no denying they make good watches very well and with great precision. All movements are hand-assembled and subject to such vigorous testing that it’s probably not very fun being a Rolex watch. 

Launched in 1945 in celebration of Rolex’s 40th anniversary, the Datejust was the first self-winding chronometer wristwatch in the manufacture’s stable to display the date in a three o’clock window. Today, that window is enhanced with their proprietary Cyclops lens, patented in 1953.  

It’s probably no surprise that this year’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 also comes in Rolesor, first used in Datejust models from 1948. The gold and steel combination has been a Rolex signature since 1933 and sees the bezel, crown and centre bracelet links in 18K yellow gold (or Everose) while the rest of the case and bracelet are in 904L steel. The fluted bezel harks back to vintage Rolexes and, together with the Jubilee bracelet and champagne sunray-finished dial, adds a touch of nostalgia to the timepiece. 

Inside, the watch is powered by the new-generation self-winding Calibre 3235 (above). Entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex, the movement was first unveiled last year in the Datejust Pearlmaster. It features Rolex’s new energy-efficient Chronergy escapement which essentially extends the power reserve of the watch to about 70 hours. Thanks to its nickel-phosphorus material, the escapement is also impervious to magnetic interference. Not that you’d likely be caught in a situation where the surrounding magnetic field is sufficient to disrupt your watch’s movement, but it’s good to know and nice to have.

So if you’re in the market for a Rolex, don’t ignore the Datejust 41. It’s not the fanciest out there but it’s well-made and packs its own punch. Plus, it’ll cost you much less than a Daytona and you won’t have to get on a waiting list. Not yet, anyway.

Melissa Kong

Ex Managing Editor

Like most people these days, Melissa tells the time with her phone. She considers serious timepieces works of art and thinks the perpetual calendar is the handiest complication to date (pun not intended). She's also a Grammar Nazi but promises not to judge if you can't tell the difference between "guilloche" and "guillotine".