Panerai kicks off SIHH 2017 with two Radiomir watches that will take you back in time.

Setting the controls for the 1930s, Panerai marches out two new Radiomir models inspired by vintage pieces that were once presented to the higher-ups of the Royal Italian Navy.

The throwback detail is centred on the 12-sided bezel in brushed steel, which replicates the look of Panerai Radiomir’s screw-down casebacks. The words ‘OFFICINE PANERAI – BREVATTATO’ (‘Brevattato’ meaning ‘Patent’ in English) are inscribed on the bezel, likely alluding to the timepieces that were once sent to the authorities to be tested.  

Other historical references are expressed via the case size (47mm, similar to vintage Panerai watches), the old-school wire loop lugs, and the classic sandwich dial. Two dial versions are available: black (PAM685) and shaded brown (PAM687). The latter is the one to go for, in our opinion. The retrolicious hue, which, in fact, is new dial colour for Panerai, comes with an interesting backstory. The brown mimics the faded shade of once-black dials that had changed colour due to the effects of radium, the luminescent substance that was used in old Panerai watches.

Both models are powered by Panerai’s in-house P.3000 hand-wound movement, introduced in 2010, with three-day power reserve driven by two spring barrels. Another great feature of this movement is its quick-set mechanism, which allows for the hour hand to be set forward or backwards without interfering with the minute hand or operation of the watch. 

Each watch comes in a special wooden presentation box with additional Plexiglas crystal, a personalised certificate, and a book detailing Panerai’s involvement with the Royal Italian Navy.

Case	42mm, stainless steel
Dial	PAM685: black with luminescent hands and markers; PAM687: shaded brown with luminescent hands and markers
Movement	Hand-winding P.3000 calibre
Strap	Leather with steel buckle
Functions	Hours and minutes
Power reserve	72 hours
Water resistance	30 meters