Powered by the tenth in-house calibre of the Oris Movement Creation Programme, this watch is quite the looker.

Oris has been on a roll in recent years, re-establishing its watchmaking cred with the Oris Movement Creation Programme. The timepieces bearing calibres created under this initiative are excellent value propositions, offering the average watch enthusiasts opportunities to own Swiss-made tickers with in-house movements at price points that wouldn’t break the bank. And the Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 is no exception, as the company enters the 10th year of the programme with its 10th in-house movement.

Oris’ pragmatic approach to movement-making has been apparent since the first of the Calibre 100 Series was launched in 2014. These purpose-driven manual-winding movements were endowed with a 10-day power reserve driven by a single barrel and often featured useful functions, such as a power reserve indicator, second time zone, and business calendar. Then, it set a new standard in Swiss-made automatic watches in 2020 with the Calibre 400 Series, which boasts a five-day power reserve, high anti-magnetism, 10-year warranty, and 10-year recommended service intervals.

When the Big Crown Pointer Date was fitted with the Calibre 403 last year, it was heartening to see the beloved watch finally getting its first in-house movement in a very long time, albeit a self-winding one. Signalling a new era for the icon with a new engine, the watch also departs from the retro aesthetic, as exemplified by models such as the Waldenburgerbahn Limited Edition. Instead of a fluted bezel, it bears a sleek polished one, while the classic cathedral hands are replaced with sword-shaped ones, and the crescent-shaped date pointer is changed to an arrow-shaped hand. The Arabic numerals have also been reworked to be more in line with the contemporary look of the watch.

The Oris Big Crown Calibre 473

The Big Crown Calibre 473 one-ups its predecessor with a hand-wound in-house movement, its first in decades, which brings the collection full circle. Taking Oris watchmakers four years to develop, Calibre 473 is built on the same base as Calibre 403. Therefore, it shares similar characteristics like elevated levels of anti-magnetism and a five-day power reserve. The latter is shown by a 120-hour indicator above the barrel, visible via the sapphire crystal caseback, thanks to the absence of a winding rotor. As with all watches with Calibre 400 Series movements, the Big Crown Calibre 473 also comes with a 10-year warranty and 10-year recommended service intervals.

Looks-wise, the Big Crown Calibre 473 inherits the modern, streamlined aesthetics of the Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 but with a more attractive colourway, in our opinion. Framed by a 38mm stainless steel case, the dial is rendered in sky blue, perhaps as a nod to the watch’s aviation roots. Retailing at S$6,300, it is paired with an olive-brown strap, which is crafted by Cervo Volante from sustainably sourced deer leather. Fitted with a stainless steel butterfly folding clasp that is newly developed by Oris, it comes with a fine adjustment system that ensures a comfortable wearing experience. 

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