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INTRODUCING: Edouard Koehn’s new World Heritage II

The Edouard Koehn World Heritage II in titanium case.

The newly revived watch brand offers its Universal Time with Alarm through Sincere Fine Watches in Southeast Asia.

If you’re not familiar with Edouard Koehn, don’t be surprised. This rather obscure name originates from 1839. Koehn was a watchmaker whose career began at the court of the Grand Duchy of Saxe-Weimar-Eisenach, better known as the Grand Duchy of Saxony later. He would continue his work at Patek Philippe before taking over HR Ekegren in 1891. Koehn kept the Ekegren company name until 1896, when the founder passed on, and subsequently changed it to its existing brand today. 

Bernard and Axel Fleury, CEO and CFO of Edouard Koehn respectively.
Bernard and Axel Fleury, CEO and CFO of Edouard Koehn, respectively.

Koehn produced complication movements in small series for other watchmakers, in addition to his own timepieces. In 2020, the brand was revived by Bernard Fleury and his son Axel, and today, it retains the flavour of the original Koehn brand by producing watches in small series. Fleury, of course, is no stranger to watchmaking. He revived the Vulcain brand in 2002, later selling it to Suisse Excellence Holding in 2009. So, Koehn is essentially a second act for him. 

The Edouard Koehn World Heritage II combines and alarm with world time function.
The Edouard Koehn World Heritage II combines an alarm with a world time function.

World Heritage II

Since Koehn was at Patek Philippe for some time, it comes as no surprise that the brand’s aesthetic and signatures would be inspired by turn-of-the-century designs from the esteemed watchmaker. The World Heritage II is an excellent example. The world time complication, of course, was developed by Louis Cottier, who wanted to standardise the display of Universal Time in mechanical watchmaking. His patented innovation for syncing the city ring with the hour hand earned Patek Philippe’s attention, and the watchmaker commissioned him to develop its iconic world time movement. 

The three hand indicators on the dial are Alpha hands for the hours and minutes of local and world time, while the red arrow hand indicates the alarm.
The three-hand indicators on the dial are Alpha hands for the hours and minutes of local and world time, while the red arrow hand indicates the alarm.

The 88-piece limited-edition World Heritage II certainly references Patek Philippe’s 1930s World Time watches but flips the script on its design. In the World Heritage II, a barleycorn guilloché dial in a galvanised ice blue colour encircles the world time display. A central dial shows a top view of the Earth, a city ring, and a day-and-night 24-hour display. At the edge of the dial, together with a minute track, the dial also features a ‘quarters’ track, breaking each hour mark into quarters. This is for the alarm function, which is indicated by the red arrow hand and controlled by the crown at 4 o’clock. 

The Edouard Koehn World Heritage II comes in four other dial colours as well.
The Edouard Koehn World Heritage II comes in four other dial colours as well.

It’s an elegant watch with a rather useful function if you’re someone with a strong sleep hygiene routine or need a backup alarm in case you forget to charge your phone. Or a Luddite. Housed in a 42mm round case with a slim polished bezel and case, the World Heritage II is well proportioned and is paired with a black matte alligator leather strap. 

The Edouard Koehn II features an open caseback showcasing the Concepto movement.
The Edouard Koehn II features an open caseback showcasing the Concepto movement.

The self-winding Calibre EK-MVTWTA01 is an exclusively designed movement made by Concepto for Koehn’s use and offers 48 hours of autonomy when fully wound. Its two barrels run in parallel and power all the functions of the watch. Interestingly, the watch’s case material is a modern polished Grade 5 titanium rather than steel or precious metal. Coupled with the ice blue dial, it’s a contemporary look housing a classic function. (There are other dial options, from classic blue and anthracite to green and silver.)

The Edouard Koehn World Heritage II.
The Edouard Koehn World Heritage II.

It’s easy to see the World Heritage II as an homage to the World Time Watch, and the alarm does add a reference to Fleury’s time at Vulcain. But in a real sense, this is a great watch for a frequent traveller who needs an alert, whether to call family back home or to wake up for an early flight. 

Edouard Koehn is exclusively available at Sincere Fine Watches across Southeast Asia.

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Editor

Darren has been writing about, and admiring the craft of watchmaking for over a dozen years. He considers himself lucky to live in a golden age of horology, and firmly believes that the most difficult watches to design are the simplest and the most intriguing to discover.