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INTRODUCING: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription

Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription

The LVMH Group revives the Daniel Roth label with a subscription tourbillon watch, a tradition that goes back to Abraham-Louis Breguet himself.

In the post-Quartz recovery of the Swiss watch industry, several independent watchmakers and brands began to emerge swiftly. These bold pioneers and changemakers wanted to revive the industry and raise it to Swiss watchmaking’s impressive profile in the pre-Quartz era.

One of these changemakers was Daniel Roth. A watchmaker of impressive pedigree whose experience included developing the very first tourbillon wristwatch for Breguet, he decided in 1988 to step out and create his own independent label. The Daniel Roth watch was characterised by its double ellipse case design and incorporated impressive complications that the atelier took pains to invent and realise. From automatons and jacquemarts to incredibly artistic dials, Daniel Roth became a symbol of independent watch creation, much like Philippe Dufour et al.

Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription
The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription in 18K yellow gold.

After Bulgari acquired the Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth brands from The Hour Glass in 2000, they absorbed both brands and their designs into their own models. For a while, there were a few co-branded models, and subsequently, designs adapted from both ateliers bore the Bulgari logo. This would eventually be phased out as Bulgari would find its own place in fine and high watchmaking through the Octo, a case that was inspired by Genta’s own model.

When LVMH acquired Bulgari, the two brands became subsumed and sat quietly until this year when the group announced its plans to revive the Daniel Roth brand under the care and development of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.

The Tourbillon Souscription 

Holding close to Daniel Roth’s expertise and career, and the brand’s as well, the first watch to emerge from the revival is the Tourbillon Souscription, a timepiece that is thoroughly apt given its close association with the device.

Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription
The signature double ellipse case has subtle tweaks, such as curved lugs for a better fit.

The watch is housed in an 18K yellow gold case that’s 9.2mm thick, thanks to the movement that lies within. It is presented with an 18K yellow gold dial decorated with a Clous de Paris guilloché created by Kari Voutilainen. Closer inspection will show some differences between the original double ellipse case and the new watch, such as curved lugs for a better fit.

Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription
The 18K yellow gold dial is decorated with a Clous de Paris guilloché created by Kari Voutilainen.

Inside the watch is the DR001 in-house manufacture movement, developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton for the brand. It’s finished by hand and shaped to the case, with a beautiful tourbillon that is carefully decorated. Each watch is numbered, which is shown on the solid case back.

Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription
Limited to 20 pieces, each Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription is numbered, as shown on the solid caseback.

The design of this watch is entirely faithful to the original Daniel Roth models and is limited to just 20 pieces globally. As with the souscription (subscription) tradition, a deposit will be required upon order, and the remainder will be paid on delivery of the watch. Every watch is produced by hand and personally overseen by master watchmaker Michel Navas.

Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription
The beautifully decorated tourbillon of the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription up close.

It’s apt that The Hour Glass is the exclusive distributor for Daniel Roth since it had an important role in supporting his initial atelier. The Tourbillon Souscription retails at S$225,000 with tax, and orders can be made now.



Darren has been writing about, and admiring the craft of watchmaking for over a dozen years. He considers himself lucky to live in a golden age of horology, and firmly believes that the most difficult watches to design are the simplest and the most intriguing to discover.