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All the Watches Launched Just Before Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024

The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept with Citrus Green Dial will make your eyes weep.

There are just two days until the annual Geneva watch fairs begin, and brands big and small are dropping releases to reach watch enthusiasts.

That’s right; this is the last weekend before your Instagram, Facebook, Telegram, and private group chats get completely inundated with wrist shots of the latest watches being released in Geneva. However, brands are not just waiting for the fair to begin their novelty releases. This week saw a massive drop from those presenting at one of the Geneva fairs and those who have chosen to stay away. Here’s a brief look at the watches that snared our attention.

The Angelus Instrument de Vitesse in a shade of white ivory.
The Angelus Instrument de Vitesse in a shade of white ivory.

Angelus Instrument de Vitesse

Angelus is historically renowned for its beautiful chronographs and movements with long power reserves, and its latest watch gently hints at this past. The Instrument de Vitesse (French for ‘speed’ or ‘moving quickly’) is a monopusher chronograph that reminds us of its monopushers from the 1920s. But instead of a standard two- or three-counter configuration, they’ve made a one-minute chronograph with a single chronograph seconds hand that can be used as a running seconds indicator if you keep the vertically coupled chronograph in use. The watch also has a BASE-1000 tachymeter encircling the time display and comes in two dial options – a vintage-ish eggshell tone or black opaline with contrasting details in light blue and gold, respectively.

The Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 has a world time that includes DST functions.
The Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 has a world time that includes DST functions.

Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1

Daylight Savings Time is a plague on all of our body clocks twice a year and on life in general (there is a correlation between the number of serious or deadly accidents and the daylight savings switch). In particular, mechanical watchmakers haven’t really found an effective way to present DST; most simply advise to use the next city to keep track. Bovet has found a solution for all of us, using a unique roller system that lets the user adjust to any standard hour time zone, including DST options for the American and European continents. The Récital 28 Prowess 1, however, doesn’t end there. As its name suggests, it’s a powerhouse that offers a Rolodex-style perpetual calendar and flying tourbillon, plus a 10-day power reserve.

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic ‘Sketch’.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sketch

Bulgari is turning 140 (where does the time go?), and it is celebrating with a trio of limited editions in the Octo Finissimo collection, which is turning 10 this year as well. To mark this important double anniversary, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani reveals the very first step he takes in developing a movement – by sketching it. The watches bear illustrated dials that reveal details of the movement they house. Two of the models are Octo Finissimo Automatics, ultra-thin, self-winding time-only models with a small seconds counter at 7 o’clock. One version is in steel (Ref. 104163), and the other in rose gold (Ref. 104165). It’s not clear what technique is used in producing the dials, but they do appear to be stamped first and then painted or printed using a graphite-like paint. These are limited to 280 and 70 pieces, respectively. In addition, there’s also a Chronograph GMT (Ref. 104192) housed in a steel case with the dial sketched in, including the chronograph counters and elements of the escapement. This model is limited to 140 pieces.

The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept is not for the weak-eyed.
The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept is not for the weak-eyed.

H. Moser & Cie.  

Moser has dropped a watch that’s designed to reveal just how old you are: if you’re looking at the Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green and squinting or thinking in your head that this is painful to look at, you’ve officially entered middle adulthood. Styled like a Tahiti lime, it has an almost luminous dial that veers towards neon yellow at the centre and cools to a bright green. With no logo or indexes, the watch is an homage to minimalism, translated in Gen Z colours. Even if there’s no need for more illumination, it’s offered with luminous hands. The brushed steel case is paired with four strap options: steel bracelet, textile strap, rubber, or alligator leather. (The steel bracelet does look bomb.) The watch is fitted with the HMC 201 with a three-day power reserve.

The 20-piece limited edition Hautlence HLXX.
The 20-piece limited edition Hautlence HLXX.

Hautlence

Hautlence turns 20 this year, and it’s released a 20-piece limited edition that bridges its early days and its current place in watchmaking. The HLXX uses the refined design of its TV case from 2022/3 with the measurements of the original. The combination gives the watch a much smaller presence on the wrist, even with the easy change strap system embedded within the case. With a design inspired by classic locomotives, the watch has a jumping hour display, a large retrograde minutes counter, and a rotating Möbius logo as a running seconds counter, though with no indication. The minutes are made with Globolight, and the movement driving the watch is the A20 calibre, which has long supporting bridges in blue to emphasise its train carriage inspiration.

The Omega Speedster
The Omega Speedster ‘Moonwatch’ Professional with white lacquer dial.

Omega

Omega has been busy this last quarter, throwing out watches left, right, and centre, along with what appears to be a never-ending series of MoonSwatches. But the most talked about watch of the year has to be its steel Speedmaster with a white lacquer dial. It’s the first time lacquer has been used on a regular production Speedmaster, and the pristine, glossy dial really does bring out every aspect of the watch dial, from the sunk-in counters to the edging on the hour and minute track ring. This is further emphasised by the deep black indexes and hands, as well as striking red accents on the chronograph seconds hand tip and the ‘Speedmaster’ lettering on the dial. We’ll talk more about this, but if you are a Moonwatch lover, you may notice details like the DON tachymeter and Alaska I reference. Suffice it to say we have a serious crush on this piece.

The Trilobe L'Heure Exquise in titanium with dune dial.
The Trilobe L’Heure Exquise in titanium with dune dial.

Trilobe

With its eccentric discs that indicate the time in an unconventional style, Trilobe appeals to those who enjoy elegant classics with an artistic twist. Now, with L’Heure Exquise, it is introducing its first complication, and that is, aptly, a moonphase display that sits right at the heart of its embedded rings. A small counter features a double moon display that completes one rotation every 59 days with a starry midnight blue background, set on a sandblasted Dune or Blue dial, as well as a personalised Secret edition that fills the dial with luminous starry elements. It’s available in rose gold or titanium.

There’s more to come, including a surprise release from an indie tomorrow. Follow us on Instagram to keep up with the latest from Watches and Wonders Geneva today.

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Editor

Darren has been writing about, and admiring the craft of watchmaking for over a dozen years. He considers himself lucky to live in a golden age of horology, and firmly believes that the most difficult watches to design are the simplest and the most intriguing to discover.


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