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INTRODUCING: Longines’ new Conquest Automatic and Chronograph models

The Longines Conquest Chronograph in stainless steel with black-and-gold dial.

With a new refined design, the Longines Conquest is more attractive than ever.

The Conquest collection by Longines has a long history, just under 70 years, but its story began earlier in 1947. At the time, it was supplying timekeepers for explorers and in 1947, it provided chronometers, timing devices, and specially designed wristwatches for the Expeditions Polaires Françaises. These were based on their sports watches and had a modified screw-down caseback for improved water resistance.

Why am I mentioning this? Because in 1954, Longines introduced the Conquest, a serially produced watch with the same screw-down waterproof case with a more elegant dial, refined lugs, and slim bezel, coupled with an automatic movement. Now, on the eve of its 70th anniversary, Longines has further improved the Conquest with an updated design that’s contemporary, stylish, and sporty.

The Longines Conquest Automatic 34mm in steel case with mother-of-pearl dial.
The Longines Conquest Automatic 34mm in steel case with mother-of-pearl dial.

The New Longines Conquest Automatic

The new Conquest Automatic models come in two sizes, 34mm and 41mm, with a time-and-date function. There’s also a 42mm chronograph with a two-tone dial that’s simply stunning. Comparing older Conquest models with the new timepieces, let’s take a look at what’s changed.

A Longines Conquest 24H model from 2020.
A Longines Conquest 24H model from 2020.

The whole watch case has a softer look with fewer angles and more curves. This is especially evident on the lug corners and crown guards. The lugs are also slightly shortened and appear less curved, which allows the watch to fit better on the wrist and makes it look slimmer. The bezel and case middle are also slimmed down, giving it a lean and trim appearance.

The Longines Conquest 41mm in steel case with gold dial.
The Longines Conquest Automatic 41mm in steel case with gold dial.

The Conquest Automatic's dial features a ring with circular graining, with a minute track surrounding it. On the 34mm model, the watch has a mother-of-pearl dial, with a total of 15 diamond hour indexes – 12 on the circular-grained ring and three more at the quarters on the inner dial. The 41mm model has a bronze-coloured dial with angled bar indexes that stretch across the minute track into the inner sunray brushed dial. Gone are the oversized ‘12’ and ‘6’ Arabic numeral indicators. A small date window is positioned at 6 o’clock in both models.

A closeup of the dial and movement of the Longines Conquest Automatic.
A closeup of the dial and movement of the Longines Conquest Automatic.

The additional finishes on the dial add complexity and layer to the watch, giving it a contemporary and timeless look. The cases are brushed to the lugs and adjoining links, with mirror polishing on the bezel, crown, and sides of the case. The watches have a brushed H-link bracelet with mirror polishing on the middle links. On the ladies’ model, the bezel is set with 48 diamonds with alternating grooves on the bezel.

The Longines Conquest Automatic 41mm on the wrist.
The Longines Conquest Automatic 41mm on the wrist.

These watches would not look out of place in 1954 or 2023 and are available in numerous other dial options. The 34mm case is available in a silver or light bronze dial as well, and the 41mm Conquest Automatic will have variations in blue, black, and green dials. Both watches are quite unisex in style, an expression of casual elegance.

The Longines Conquest Chronograph in steel with gold dial.
The Longines Conquest Chronograph in steel with gold dial.

The Longines Conquest Chronograph

The chronograph model features the same design aesthetics as the time-and-date models, with polished chronograph pushers and three black counters on the dial indicating the small seconds, 12-hour, and 30-minute totalisers at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, respectively. The sunray brushed dials are in black, blue, silver and gold and paired with ceramic bezels engraved with a BASE-500 tachymeter.

The caseback of the Longines Conquest Automatic reveals the L898.5 calibre.
The caseback of the Longines Conquest Automatic reveals the L898.5 calibre.

All the watches feature an exhibition caseback through which their movements can be seen. The time-and-date models house the L888 calibre with a three-day power reserve. The 42mm chronograph model houses the L898.5 calibre with a 72-hour power reserve. These watches feature a silicon balance spring for improved performance and escapements with high magnetic resistance. All models will be available at Longines boutiques and authorised retailers from next month onwards; head on down to a store to try on the new Conquest for yourself.

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Editor

Darren has been writing about, and admiring the craft of watchmaking for over a dozen years. He considers himself lucky to live in a golden age of horology, and firmly believes that the most difficult watches to design are the simplest and the most intriguing to discover.


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