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INTRODUCING: MB&F x Bvlgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra

A stunning bejewelled collaboration between MB&F and Bvlgari.

When MB&F launched the Legacy Machine FlyingT two years ago, I caught up with its founder and creative director, Max Büsser, on his whirlwind trip here to present the watch to the press (back when overseas trips were a thing). At that time, I was always griping about how there weren’t enough beautiful, technically complex, mechanical watches for women. And then Max showed up with the Legacy Machine FlyingT and I had to eat my words.

What struck me was how the watch wasn’t just created for women, it was inspired by them. Max revealed the women in his life were all of great character—enthusiastic, full of energy, and very elegant.  While challenging, he made sure to create a timepiece that encapsulated all of these virtues.

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There are personal touches too. The ‘T’ in FlyingT represents not just the flying tourbillon but the name of Max’s wife, Tiffany. The entire aesthetic of the watch, with its large domed crystal, was made to reference a snow globe—a present he always brings his daughter when he returns from his trips.

And you may wonder why the movement of the timepiece (above) is created in a three-dimensional construction with its dial angled at 50 degrees (courtesy of conical gears). Well, that’s because it was designed to look like the ballerina figurine from his daughter’s jewellery box. It also makes the dial a special gift for the wearer because she’s the only one who would be able to see it. Although setting the dial this way means a lot of energy is consumed, the watch is still equipped with 100 hours of power reserve—an engineering feat, for sure.

In this collaboration with Bvlgari, it comes as no surprise that the resulting timepiece would be a visual feast. Having most recently worked with H. Moser & Cie, MB&F is no stranger to partnerships. This time round, its teamwork with Bvlgari just proves how luxurious, yet playful, a woman’s watch can be.

Leveraging on the colourful, cabochon-clad aesthetic of Bvlgari’s Allegra Watch—itself a cocktail confection of vibrant gems—the MB&F x Bvlgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra is a scintillating creation that combines mechanical mastery with artisanal savoir faire.

A diamond-paved dial presents a glittering canvas for a variety of coloured stones like tourmaline, tsavorite, rubellite, amethyst, tanzanite and topaz, which encircle the LM FlyingT movement.

Two versions of the MB&F x Bvlgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra are available, with 20 pieces each in 18K white gold and 18K rose gold. Both feature brilliant-cut diamonds on the dial, crowns, case and buckle totalling 3.04 carats. The white gold version comes with three tsavorites in square, pear and round shapes, an oval topaz and amethyst, and a round tanzanite and tourmaline. It is finished with a green alligator strap.

The rose gold version, on the other hand, features two tsavorites in square and round shapes, two tourmalines in oval and round shapes, an oval tanzanite, a pear-shaped amethyst and a round rubellite. A red alligator strap completes the look.

When the Legacy Machine FlyingT was unveiled, it was the first women’s watch MB&F had ever made. To see it in a beautiful tie-up with Bvlgari is an encouraging sign of things to come.

Towards the end of our chat, Max revealed, “I don’t care if people don’t like what I make. But I care if existing clients don’t like what I make.” If the response to the first LM FlyingT is anything to go by, we can expect more beautiful creations like these to emerge in the near future. And for female watch collectors, that’s not a bad thing at all.



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Ex Managing Editor

Like most people these days, Melissa tells the time with her phone. She considers serious timepieces works of art and thinks the perpetual calendar is the handiest complication to date (pun not intended). She's also a Grammar Nazi but promises not to judge if you can't tell the difference between "guilloche" and "guillotine".