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INTRODUCING: H. Moser & Cie's two new Endeavour Vantablack models

The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack.

The two watches are an ode to absolute minimalism.

When it comes to discreet luxury, H. Moser & Cie. is well ahead of the pack. Edouard Meylan first introduced the material five years ago with the Endeavour Perpetual Moon Concept, creating a timepiece Anish Kapoor would be proud of. As you may know, Vantablack is the second-darkest material that has been produced, absorbing 99.965% of the light that is shone on the coating. The watch also bore a completely blank, logo-less display, inspired by Bottega Veneta’s idea of invisible identity.  

The H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Concept Vantablack.
Look, ma, (nearly) no hands! It's the H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Concept Vantablack.

Since then, Vantablack has appeared in several Moser watches, most notably the Swiss Alp Watch Final Upgrade with a sub-seconds display inspired by Apple’s buffering icon, and the Venturer Concept Vantablack from last year, which was meant to be a joke, with dial and hands all coated in the same ultra-black material.  

The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack.
The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack.

The Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack 

At this year’s Geneva Watch Days, Moser unveiled two new watches with dials that are plenty “busy” compared with its stunt offerings in the past. The Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack has a black hole of a dial, save for an aperture that reveals its double hairspring rotating escapement in a tourbillon cage with a minute’s cycle. In the spirit of Nietzsche’s “staring into the abyss”, the dial is devoid of indexes or logos. Two faceted leaf-shaped red gold hands indicate the time with the gold and silver-coloured movement components ticking away and doubling as a seconds display of sorts.  

The HMC 804 Calibre can be seen through the caseback of the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack.
The HMC 804 Calibre can be seen through the caseback of the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack.

The movement behind this watch is Moser’s now-familiar HMC 804 calibre, with in-house produced hairsprings that are matched to maximise even breathing and thus improve isochronism. The tourbillon runs at 3Hz and has a minimum power reserve of three days, fuelled by a full-sized, skeletonised bi-directional winding rotor visible through the exhibition caseback. The 40mm watch case comes in red gold and is paired with a matte black alligator leather strap with a red gold folding clasp.

The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack.
The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack.

The Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack 

This new model is perhaps a reaction to the Venturer Concept Vantablack, if you are philosophical about timekeeping. The Venturer watch considered the meaning of telling time if it could not be seen or experienced in some way. And just like how Kapoor often likes to add a touch of light in the dark, creating a confronting clash of opposites, the Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack adds red gold indexes and the same leaf-shaped hands to the dial with a needle-like central seconds hand. The hour markers are flattened slivers of gold bars, seemingly floating with the hands on a pitch-black display as if in space.  

The HMC 200 Calibre can be viewed through the caseback of the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack.
The HMC 200 calibre can be viewed through the caseback of the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack.

The dial is framed by a concave bezel that swerves into the case and lugs in sweeping, organic curves that stun in a mirror finish. Like the tourbillon model, it comes in red gold and is sized at 40mm. The movement that drives this watch is the automatic HMC 200 calibre, with a Straumann alloy hairspring and three days of power delivered via the skeleton rotor on the back of the movement.  

The two H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Concept Vantablack watches presented at Geneva Watch Days 2023.
The two H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Concept Vantablack watches presented at Geneva Watch Days 2023.

The designs of these watches, simple as they may be, epitomise the elegance of a well-crafted watch and the beauty of a minimalist watch. We certainly hope Moser will continue to explore using Vantablack in different ways, because these creations are taking watchmaking to the level of conceptual art.  

H. Moser & Cie. is available through Cortina Watch in Singapore, Malaysia, and Thailand.  

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Editor

Darren has been writing about, and admiring the craft of watchmaking for over a dozen years. He considers himself lucky to live in a golden age of horology, and firmly believes that the most difficult watches to design are the simplest and the most intriguing to discover.


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