Darren Ho 27 January 2023

Two limited edition designs inspired by Mount Iwate celebrate the silver jubilee of the Grand Seiko Calibre 9S.

Grand Seiko is kicking off 2023 with two limited edition models that celebrate an important milestone this year – the 25th anniversary of its mechanical Calibre 9S. First introduced in 1998 with the reference SBGR001, the precise movement elevated Grand Seiko to new mechanical watchmaking standards. Today, Calibre 9S watches are distinguished by the gold ‘GS’ logo on the dial.

The two models – SBGH311 and SBGR325 – revert to the case design of the SBGR001. Featuring stunning dials, they are both sized at 37mm with a 13.3mm thickness. The SBGH311 is powered by the 9S85 Hi-Beat movement, while the SBGR325 uses the Calibre 9S65.  

The Grand Seiko SBGH311 

The SBGH311’s textured silver dial is inspired by the clouds that hover around Mount Iwate’s peak, a sight that’s visible at daybreak. Since Grand Seiko’s watches are produced at its Iwate Prefecture manufactures, it’s unsurprising that Mount Iwate is a frequent source of inspiration for the brand. The titanium oscillating weight, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, is anodised to create an uplifting blue hue, the colour of the sky, as the clouds appear over Mount Iwate.  

The Calibre 9S85 is Grand Seiko’s high-beat movement, running at 5Hz and delivering an accuracy of +5/-3 seconds daily, exceeding COSC requirements. The watch has a power reserve of 55 hours and is now available at Grand Seiko’s online boutique. It will arrive in stores from Feb 2023 onwards, retailing at €7,200 (local price pending).  

The Grand Seiko SBGR325 

The SBGR325 has a light blue dial with a sunray finish that reflects the bright blue skies of Mount Iwate. Light plays off the sunray finishing like how the rays of the Sun illuminate the brilliant blue sky on a clear day. The blue theme continues on the seconds hand as well as the oscillating rotor.  

The watch is powered by the Calibre 9S65, which runs at 4Hz and has a three-day power reserve. The watch will be available from April 2023 onwards at Grand Seiko boutiques and authorised dealers, retailing at €5,800 (local price pending).  

Like the SBGR001 designed by Nobuhiro Kosugi in 1998, the two watches are well-balanced in design, with Zaratsu-finished and brushed surfaces creating a beautiful interplay of light when worn. And at 37mm, it’s suitable for all wrist sizes. With 1,200 pieces up for grabs each, this is a limited edition you might actually be able to get your hands on.

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Darren Ho

Editor

Darren has been writing about, and admiring the craft of watchmaking for over a dozen years. He considers himself lucky to live in a golden age of horology, and firmly believes that the most difficult watches to design are the simplest and the most intriguing to discover.