Skip to main content

Grand Seiko Shines at Watches and Wonders 2024 on Multiple Fronts

Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition (Ref. SBGC275)

From a new hand-wound high-beat movement to a patented dial-processing technique, the Japanese watchmaker’s horological prowess is on full display.

Since its inaugural participation at Watches and Wonders 2022, Grand Seiko has consistently been one of the more talk-about brands at the fair; it launched its first mechanical complication – the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon – at its debut showing and followed that up with its first mechanical chronograph – the Tentagraph – last year. This year, it’s covering all the bases with a slew of elegant dress watches as well as handsome sports tickers while turning heads with a 20th-anniversary tribute to the Spring Drive Calibre 9R, an update to the GPHG-winning Kodo, and even a new high-beat movement. Here are some of the highlights.

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection
The new hand-wound high-beat Calibre 9SA4 is housed in a pair of Evolution 9 dress watches in Brilliant Hard Titanium (Ref. SLGW003) or 18K rose gold (Ref. SLGW002).

Evolution 9 (Refs: SLGW002 & SLGW003)

Grand Seiko’s headliner may not be as flashy as its previous years’, but it’s no less deserving of your attention. At first blush, the duo captivates with the textured dials that are reportedly inspired by white birch trees. However, encased in the otherwise unassuming dress watches is the Japanese watchmaker’s first hand-wound high-beat movement in 50 years – Calibre 9SA4, the third on the 9S platform that thus far comprises self-winding movements, including the Tentagraph’s 9SC5.

Calibre 9SA4
Calibre 9SA4 has been designed to enhance the tactile, aural, and visual experience when winding the watch.

Although based off Calibre 9SA5, sharing common characteristics like an oscillation rate of 10 beats per second and a power reserve of 80 hours thanks to the highly efficient Dual Impulse Escapement and two barrels, nearly 40 per cent of the 9SA4 has been redesigned and reconstructed to enhance the tactile, aural, and visual experience when winding the watch. For instance, its click (the component that holds the ratchet wheel against the force of the mainspring) is shaped like a wagtail, and its bird-like pecking motion can be observed through the sapphire crystal caseback as one winds the watch.

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection SLGW003
The 38.6mm watches are only 9.95mm thick, thanks to the 4.15mm thinness of the Calibre 9SA4.

The 38.6mm watches are only 9.95mm thick, and they are available in Brilliant Hard Titanium (Ref. SLGW003) or 18K rose gold (Ref. SLGW002). The latter is limited to 80 pieces and carries the ‘star’ mark, denoting that its hour markers are also crafted in gold.

Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition (Ref. SBGC275)
Ref. SBGC275 is a 20th-anniversary tribute to the Spring Drive Calibre 9R.

Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition (Ref. SBGC275)

Celebrating the 20th anniversary of the first Grand Seiko watch powered by the 9R Spring Drive movement series, this new Spring Drive Chronograph GMT features a patented dial-processing technology – “Optical Multilayer Coating”. In essence, several layers of nanoscale film are applied via physical vapour deposition, highlighting the intricate “lion’s mane” texture of the dial. Inspired by the Hotaka mountain range, the dial seemingly changes colour thanks to the novel technique, recalling the colours of summer mornings in the vast landscape.

Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition (Ref. SBGC275)
The patented “Optical Multilayer Coating” technology highlights the intricate “lion’s mane” texture of the dial and changes colour depending on the viewing angle.

Limited to 700 pieces, Ref. SBGC275’s 44.5mm case is fittingly equipped with the self-winding Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Calibre 9R96, a specially adjusted version of the 9R86 delivering an accuracy of ±10 seconds per month and a power reserve of 72 hours.

Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon (Ref. SLGT005)
Ref. SLGT005 is a brighter take on the GPHG-winning Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon introduced in 2022.

Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon (Ref. SLGT005)

Speaking of mornings, the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon returns this year with a 20-piece limited edition inspired by daybreak. The 2022 original, which clinched the Chronometry Prize at that year’s GPHG, was a somewhat sombre interplay of light and shadow in shades of grey, but the new Ref. SLGT005 brightens things up with silver-toned movement components evoking daybreak. Notably, blue sapphires are used for the first time in a Grand Seiko movement, seemingly emulating the morning dew.

Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon (Ref. SLGT005)
For the first time, blue sapphires are used in a Grand Seiko movement, seemingly emulating the morning dew.

Framed by a 43.8mm case in 950 platinum (inner) and Brilliant Hard Titanium (outer), the innovative Calibre 9ST1 is more spectacular than ever, as its meticulously hand-finished components are more apparent here. Practically shielding nothing from inquisitive eyes, the 340-part open-worked movement proudly showcases its inner workings, including its ingenious integration of a constant-force mechanism and tourbillon as one unit on a single axis, which ensures no loss or change in the torque transmitted.

SUBSCRIBE TO OUR CHANNEL

tourbillon, gmt, Grand Seiko, Sports luxe, Watches and Wonders, dress watch, Watches and Wonders 2024


End of content

No more pages to load