INTRODUCING: Franck Muller Curvex CX
The refreshed Franck Muller signature is finally a core collection.
First introduced in the highly impressive Grand Central Tourbillon in 2021, the Curvex CX case oddly wasn’t monikered as such until the following year with the launch of a more compact version of the watch. Franck Muller probably knew then that it had a winner in its hand and went on to flaunt complications after complications in the new form factor, including a chronograph and the recent Grand Central Tourbillon Flash. Now, the Curvex CX has finally attained the status of a core collection in the brand’s stable, with the debut of a slew of time-only references highlighting the ingenuity and refinement of the case’s design.
Despite being known as the ‘Master of Complications’, Franck Muller is perhaps even better known for its signature Cintrée Curvex case. A watchmaker that marches to its own beat from the onset, it introduced the idiosyncratic shaped case in 1992, when haute horlogerie was dominated by round watches and the rare rectangular ones. While it may look like a conventional tonneau shape at first blush, the Cintrée Curvex (“arched in a curve” in English), like its name suggests, features a plethora of curves throughout its body. This is especially apparent in the arc-shaped caseback that offers an optimum ergonomic fit for the wearer.
With its undeniable expertise in manufacturing shaped watch cases, one may have wondered how Franck Muller can evolve or improve upon the Cintrée Curvex with its perfect curves and unique contours. Simply put, it pushed the boundaries and gave us more to enjoy. In the Curvex CX’s case, this means extending the sapphire crystal all the way to the lugs, almost like an infinity pool, freeing up more space for the dial to increase its visibility. In fact, the crystal seems to transition seamlessly to the leather straps that are directly integrated into the case. Make no mistake that reducing the materials used on the sides is a technically challenging feat, but the Manufacture pulls it off with aplomb. In addition, a sleek bezel frames the dial, separate from the case, allowing endless two-tone treatment possibilities.
With a larger dial, Franck Muller, of course, spared no effort in crafting a spectacular mien for the Curvex CX. Drawing inspiration from a twisted Clous de Paris pattern, the dial is adorned with a new guilloché motif exclusively developed for the collection, creating a dynamic illusion of motion. The result of extensive research and development, it features miniature three-dimensional pyramids radiating from the centre, gradually increasing in size as it reaches the outer edges, reflecting light from various angles. The watch also retains the Cintrée Curvex’s iconic Arabic numerals, which are meticulously applied and painted by hand here. Most remarkably, the dial, including the hour markers, adopts the gentle curve of the case, which undoubtedly complicates the manufacturing process of the watch.
Available in various executions, with case materials ranging from stainless steel to 18K rose gold, different coloured dials, and bi-colour models, the Curvex CX is very wearable at 36mm by 53.1mm. Although concealed by a solid caseback, its self-winding MVD FM 2536-SC is nonetheless painstakingly decorated and finished, endowing the watch with a 42-hour power reserve.
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